Syrahed with the same brush: The many layers of Aussie Shiraz

Australia’s signature grape is in a tough spot. As the big dog of black grapes—Shiraz accounted for more than one in five wine grapes harvested in 2024, with more than twice the tonnage of second-placed Cabernet Sauvignon—its tail-between-legs retreat in the popularity stakes looks even starker. It’s cold comfort to report that Australian Shiraz has never been a more exciting proposition for the wine drinker.

Here are some reasons to dig back into it—and some wines you might well dig on the way.