Marksist theory: How a timeless gem is formed
I've heard it said many times: Gembrook Hill Pinot Noir is the Pinot the Yarra winemakers drink. This pioneering vineyard of the Upper Yarra is also home to arguably Australia's finest expressions of Sauvignon Blanc. One of the nation's finest bottles of grower fizz comes from here, too, and the Chardonnay is pretty sublime. Yet Gembrook Hill is one of the most—to use the parlance of the day—IYKYK estates going.
The story of its birth as the pipe dream of a Melbourne CBD dentist through its emergence as an Aussie domaine par excellence is an engrossing one, and can't help but include many brilliant people, not least founders Ian and June Marks. The wanderings and creative trailblazings of their son, Andrew, is a saga in itself—and it's hugely refreshing to hear about the depths of creativity and thoughtful friendship that go into painting a bright future for a homegrown gem like this.
Vaughn Again: Sowing & regrowing love at Sinapius
Vaughn Dell’s heart stopped on a northern Tasmanian vineyard in May 2020. We all knew isolation then, or thought we did. Feelings felt remote, but tears were never far away, and stasis was the status quo. The layers of weirdness might have muffled the seismic shock for Vaughn’s wife, Linda Morice; certainly, what happened next was a blur.
For 15 years, they had been growing a future here, everything constantly beginning or becoming—the vines, the wines, their daughters; Vaughn's curious, can-do singlemindedness the perfect foil for Linda's pragmatic support and quiet resolve. With Vaughn suddenly gone, she kept on. Perhaps there wasn’t a choice. But maybe some things just become a part of you, especially when it’s your love that made them.
Variety show: Chardonnay
It’s the world’s most widely planted quality white wine grape - so widespread that you may ask yourself what constitutes a “typical” Chardonnay. Ed Merrison of Vininspo! gives a nutshell version of what this wonderful grape variety is all about.
To be dexeterous & deft
“The ups and downs were extraordinary,” says Tod Dexter of the Mornington Peninsula’s learning curve. In fact, his journey is full of twists and turns of all sorts, beginning with a US ski season that turned into a life in wine. Ed Merrison of Vininspo! has the story.