Sense of Place: Priorat as seen by Terroir al Límit
“Hardcore” was my first impression when I first learned about Priorat. Remote, rugged, rocky and hard to reach, the scenery seems to throb with the same forbidding power as the slate-grown wines from gnarled bush vines.
I wanted to share this as I think it gives excellent insight into the landscape, conditions and traditions of Priorat and Montsant through the eyes of a transformative grower.
Dominik Huber and his partner Tatjana Peceric are interesting for a number of reasons. Neither is Catalan, or even Spanish; one hails from Germany, the other Serbia; one studied economics, the other was going to be a dancer. Both fell head over heels for this unique pocket of Catalunya and have dedicated themselves to expressing this place in intricate detail.
This interview was recorded on the premises of Bibendum Wine Company in Melbourne, where we welcomed Dominik in November 2024. I have included Dominik's explanation of the brands and wine ranges; this is to get a handle on how the estate presents the differences in the land and its possibilities. It is also because Terroir al Límit and its sister estate, Terroir Sense Fronteres, operate within (and sometimes counter to) DOQ Priorat and DO Montsant.
Certainly, Dominik aligns himself with the French-style division between domaine and négociant (merchant), with quality tiers that ascend as origin shrinks, from region to village to 1er cru to grand cru. Please note that the facts of the region are interspersed with Dominik's personal convictions—for instance, Garnacha is a highly important variety in Priorat but Carinyena (Carignan) leads the way in the Terroir al Límit vision there.
Dominik's love affair with this part of Spain began when he did an internship with the Pérez Ovejero family at Mas Martinet winery. He did another internship after graduating in 2000 and had a fateful encounter with South African visionary Eben Sadie (of The Sadie Family Wines). They became friends and established Terroir al Límit in 2001, and very gradually added bits until Sadie returned to South Africa in 2012.
In the years since, there have been more gradual increments and refinements. I hope this video provides a useful window onto these singular territories and a relatably global attempt to chisel away at an ever-more-precious depiction of place through the medium of wine.
